Back number Vol. 132 Climbing Trip in Japan

This story was written by Bob.
Translated by Yumiko Mori

Recently I got a chance to go back to Japan and spent a month.

Not being in Japan during the last three summers made me to be oblivious of how humid and hot it is during this season... Yet I am already in Japan and decided to get the most out of this opportunity...So I tried to squeeze climbing time in between and catching up with friends and indulging myself with Japanese food.

Aichi Pref Toyota city Hourai
Type :：Tuff
Access：https://www.climbing-net.com/iwaba_detail/%E9%B3%B3%E6%9D%A5/
Can be very busy during the weekedns but on weekdays you might be the only one in this area.
Avoid sunnyside but some routes in the shades provide you comfortable climbing.
I will talk about one of the signature routes called "THC" of this area at another time.

Gifu Pref Ena city Mt. Kasagi
Type：Tuff
Access：https://www.climbing-net.com/iwaba_detail/%E7%AC%A0%E7%BD%AE%E5%B1%B1/
This area also consists of tuff but also has a little hint of granite. Personally I like this area and various holds on the routes challenge you with unique moves to complete the projects.
This place was close to my place before I left Japan so all the memories came back and quite enjoyed my progress and time of reflection.
This area is higher in altitude than other climbing areas so gives you nice soothing breeze.


Yamaguchi Pref  Kameyama South
Type：Similar to Granite
Access：https://www.climbing-net.com/iwaba_detail/%E9%99%B6%E3%83%B6%E5%B2%B3/
The climbing area arround Tougatake is well known among the locals for many years. This area offered about 50 routes which was surprisingly large number in consideration of its small size.  However after the incidents of someone created holds along the most existing routes, it lost popularity.

This time my friend took me to the lead route in the southmost area of the Kameyama.

Technically this area is known for winter rock climbing so you can definitely enjoy slippery, humid and sweaty climing in the morning like I did. But luckily we were able to  continue to climb in the shades in the afternoon with much more better conditions.

Somehow this area reminded me of Kasagi (Gifu Pre) See the info above and became one of my favorite areas.
Near this place there are bouldering areas established by popular Japanese climber like Kazumasa Yoshida so it definitely worths to check out. On my way home we made a trip to the nearby hotsprings and 300g Steak.

Hokkaido Niseko 

Although we really wanted to go climbing, it was continuouslly raining all the time.
So we decided to visit the local families private climbing garage. To be honest, even though it was just for the family use but the quality was exceptional!!!!

Gozenmae Saitama
Type：Limestones
Access（#32）：http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~ca7s-kbys/area2/okumusashi1.html

It's the same type of the rocks as the Rockies in Canada but the unique formation of the rocks allowed us to enjoy diffrent kind of holds. This area is also for the winter rock climbing but depends on the area and weather we can still get to enjoy.
Note: This area has been closed for 30 years and recently reopened so please make sure to follow the rules below.
①Registration form（500yen、Need to fill out the years of experience and max grade）
②Don't forget to purchase 500yen drink as a way to pay parking fee

Yamanashi Pref   Mizugaki   Kamesari Creek
Type：Granite
Access：https://www.climbing-net.com/iwaba_detail/%E7%91%9E%E7%89%86%E5%B1%B1/

Even though all the drinking and eating while meeting up with my old friends made my body feel as heavy as an iron, but the quality time spent with friends definitely worth the feeling.

Main purpose of the visit to Japan for this time wasn't for the climbing but ended up getting to visit new or old places and tried various routes in Japan. Overall it was full of climbing during my stay.

2016 Mt.Waddington

   Enjoy Summer!!