Yukon climbing report Backnumber vol.141

Fish Lake

 This story was written by Toshiyuki Yamada
                                                                                                Translated by Yumiko Mori


This summer I took almost a month break from work. It was namely for "Alpine Guide exam preparation" but I took an advantage of the situation to the most and climbed around the Rockies. It was very simple like this. Finding a project, working on and accomplishing it and then finding another projects. This routine makes me think that what I have been doing hasn't changed at all since I was a university student in Japan. But one certain thing is that I have definitely gained significant amount of experiences, skills and knowledge since then. And now I am starting to define this is my path and life is all about.



When that fun and short summer ended, my guiding company offered a great opportunity to work in Yukon for a month of October. One of the perks of being a Guide is that you get to go new places. My motto as a guide is "you need to enjoy yourself first then this attitudes lead to the satisfaction of customers" Yukon in fall attracts many tourists who are looking to grasp the beauty of leaves changing colours and aurora.  Sadly I didn't see climbers much...But my friend who is a local in the area said there are climbing areas in Yukon which is promising!! Although I only got two days off during my stay in Yukon, somehow? I managed to make three days (?) of climbing while I was in Yukon.

You won't have problems finding parking spots...

　The area called Acropolice in Yukon.  This area reminds me of Smoke Bluff in Squamish. It locates just behind the residential area.       (Photo below) 

Well stepped trail

Breathtaking view of populus trees' yellow leaves.

Impressed by the well maintained trails 

We have quite similar climbing spots like this in my hometown 

　Here the rock consists of granite. I guess the formation of the rock in the west part of Canada is granite like Squamish and Waddington.   This area was 10 minutes away from the city by car and 5 minutes approach. The walls were about 12-20m and have roughly 10 lines ranging from 5.8 to 5.12a . They've got some classic lines and even though they are short. Overall it was my first free climbing on granite wall for the last three years since I moved to the Rockies. I absolutely enjoyed the unique characteristics of the granite has.

Crucifix - signature line at the Lower Rock Garden (5.11a)

　This is another area called Rock Garden. 5 minutes by a car, 5 minutes approach and it's the closest area from Whitehorse. This becomes a venue of a climbing night hosted by ACC Yukon branch that occurs every Wednesday or Thursday evening during the summer time. Since I didn't bring cams, we did top rope climbing. For a person like me that has been so used to limestone climbing, delicate edging techniques that granite requires was refreshing.

Upper Rock Garden

　This area hosts the most difficult line in Yukon called "Yesterday's Enterprise 12c" I didn't try that line and I tried the smooth faced line "Pin Heads from space 11b" next to the line instead. But the first couple of moves were absolutely difficult so it ended almost like managing to top out somehow. Personally I found this 11b was way harder than 12a that I climbed in Acropolice area.

Nothing can go better than this combination 

Please find Yukon's climbing info http://www.climbyukon.net/

Patagonia in far north

Tombstone Territorial Park that locates 550km north of Whitehorse hosts Monolis that is also called as far north Patagonia. It isn't so popular and I haven't heard climbers going there. But for me, this place seems to be a full of possibilities.  Maybe one day I can draw a line in the area.
　　

　When you get a chance to go to Yukon next time, I strongly suggest to add complete climbing gear  set to your what to bring list.

Tombstone Territorial Park

Thank you for reading!