Hey guys, it's Toshi here. This week's blog #11 is about one of the most popular climbing areas in Canada, Bugaboos. The photo above is my very first visit to Bugaboos in 2014 summer after having topped out the classic route [Beckey-Chouinard] on the north face of the South Howser Tower.
[Beckey-Chouinard] route which involves climbing the steep ridge on the left side on the north face of the South Howser Tower.
The view from the peak of the Snowpatch Spire. Pigeon peak right in front and the three pointy mountains in further back of the photo are the west face of the Howser mountains. While checking the wall,I knew there were millions of possibilities in this wall in conditions with ice and snow and this lead to our first ascend of the very left side of the wall of the Howser tower later on. At the time,I was purely thinking about the possibilities of climbing in winter season but didn't know if there were unclimbed routes or not.
This is an Applebee camp site which has a breathtaking view of the Snowpatch Spire. I would say this place can be enjoyed by anyone. Hiking up to this campsite totally worth the effort. There is a hut (Kein hut) so if you think that you can't carry the tent up there, you don't need to worry about:)
This photo was taken at the beginning of the October from the path leading to the Kein hut and Applebee camp site after having left the parking lot. I wonder if any Japanese has ever come over here in this time of the year?
It takes 4 hours if you walk slowly and if you are quick hiker, probably 2 hours and half. So there should be enough time even if you leave the lot at noon.
On the left, you can see the Hound's tooth and on right side there is Snow spires. I hugely recommend to try hiking in the fall. Especially the hiking in the fall shows a quiet face of the nature to you.
You can even enjoy such a vast glacier by yourself in fall. The peak of the Pigeon Spire is right in front of your eyes. In summer,the walls is just bare rock but as you can see, the wall covered with ice and snow makes me think about the huge potential of the mix climbing.
The red line on the photo is the first ascend line of the west face of the South Howser Tower. You can see the huge difference of the wall in comparison to the one in summer. As an avid alpine climber, I'm always attracted by the challenging walls with ice and snow.
This is the crux of our first ascended route.The photo from below was used in the magazine,〈 Yes! Our climbing of this first ascend was featured in Japanese magazine!!(Rock and Snow) 〉but I believe the photo It doesn't look like steep from the pic but actually it is quite steep and formidable.
Packing in front of the hut while dreaming about coming back here in Spring season.
In Canada, alpine climbing information is pretty limited in general and especially in Japanese. On the other hand,there are limitless adventures still waiting for you. All you have to do is just keep up your explorer spirit, always stay curious and look for the new lines then just go there and check possibilities. I believe this attitudes are the most essential and important in the alpine climbing. Personally, that's the reason why I am attracted and keep living in Canada.
I wish I could send as much as information to all of you from my experiences.